Acesulfame K. Ethoxyquin. Artificial smoke flavor.
The
first, an artificial sweetener; the second, a preservative; and the
third, a flavor enhancer, are just a few of the ingredients that Panera Bread wants to banish from its kitchens by the end of 2016.
In
doing so, Panera would join the growing ranks of food companies and
restaurants that have announced plans to eliminate a variety of
artificial preservatives, flavors and colors, as well as different kinds
of sweeteners and meat from animals raised with antibiotics, in
response to consumer demands for transparency and simplicity in the
foods they eat.
“We’re
trying to draw a line in the sand in the industry so that consumers
have an easy way to know what’s in the food they buy,” said Ron Shaich,
chief executive of Panera.
In
the last six months, at least a dozen food companies and restaurant
businesses have announced plans to reformulate products to eliminate
ingredients. “To me, this has gone way beyond anything that could even
be remotely considered a fad and become a powerful trend,” said Carl
Jorgensen, director for global consumer strategy focusing on wellness at
Daymon Worldwide, a consulting firm.
Nestlé
USA has said it will remove artificial flavorings and colors from its
chocolate candy products, including brands like Butterfinger and Baby
Ruth, as well as from Nesquik powdered drink mixes.
Hershey
in December said it would work to replace high-fructose corn syrup in
sweets like York peppermint patties and Almond Joy candy bars. Two
months later, the company said it was moving to make all of its products
from “ingredients that are simple and easy to understand.”
Kraft
recently said it would replace the artificial colorings that give
Macaroni and Cheese its orange hue with colors derived from spices like
turmeric and paprika, and PepsiCo announced that it would use sucralose
to sweeten Diet Pepsi instead of the artificial sweetener aspartame.
Last
month, McDonald’s became the latest major restaurant chain to say it
would no longer sell products made with chicken treated with human
antibiotics. A few weeks later, Tyson Foods, a major meat company that
is one of McDonald’s suppliers, said it would eliminate such antibiotics
from its poultry and begin working to get them out of other meats as
well.
Even
Snackwell, which started its life as a brand with reduced fat, is
undergoing a makeover aimed at getting rid of high-fructose corn syrup,
hydrogenated oils and artificial colors and flavors. “In this day and
age, the consumer who was satisfied with reduced fat or fat-free 20
years ago is not satisfied with that any more,” said Vincent
Fantegrossi, chief executive of the Back to Nature Foods Company, which
is owned by Brynwood Partners, a private equity group.
Retooling
an iconic brand is tricky. Companies must make sure that consumers
cannot detect any change in taste, texture or quality, or all may be
lost.
“That
actually makes the challenge for companies like us that have well-known
brands greater, compared to small companies that can simply make a
product from scratch without these ingredients,” said Leslie Mohr,
marketing manager for NestlĂ© USA’s confectionary business.
While
most of the companies have been careful to say they are merely
responding to consumer demands, not making a value judgment on such
ingredients, they often face heavy criticism. Chipotle Mexican Grill’s
announcement that it had eliminated genetically modified ingredients
from the foods it makes — though, like Panera, not from the sodas it
sells — evoked a torrent of outraged responses.
The Washington Post editorial board called Chipotle’s move a “gimmick” that was “hard to swallow,” while NPR’s popular food blog, The Salt, accused
the company of having a double standard for adopting sunflower oil,
which it said was often treated with a pesticide known for weed
resistance.
“This
is a complicated issue, and I would suggest there is less here than
meets the eye,” said L. Val Giddings, a senior fellow at the Information
Technology and Innovation Foundation.
Mr.
Giddings noted that although General Mills got a lot of publicity for
eliminating genetically modified ingredients from original Cheerios,
those were just a tiny part of the cereal’s ingredients. “I think what
they were doing at least in part was testing the water to see if they
could capitalize on it, and what they have found is pretty
illuminating,” he said. “The move had no impact on sales.”
Mr.
Shaich said Panera’s decision to come up with what it calls “The No No
List” had more to do with protecting the sales it has. The list is based
on research and standards developed by Johns Hopkins, the Environmental
Working Group, the Natural Resources Defense Council and various
European governments.
“I’m
not a scientist and I’m not wading into the debate over whether any of
these things cause cancer or are otherwise bad for you,” he said. “I
just think this is where the consumer’s head is right now.”
Panera
uses more than 450 ingredients to prepare its foods. The company had to
work with both its suppliers and their suppliers, who themselves were
not always sure whether their products contained the ingredients Panera
has decided to eliminate.
“These
ingredients have been added over time to improve efficiency and
consistency and as preservatives as supply chains have gotten longer and
longer,” said Sara Burnett, senior quality assurance manager at Panera.
Solutions
are not always perfect. Panera is rejecting titanium dioxide, a
whitener commonly used in products like ice cream and icings, from its
mozzarella, yet cheese browns as it ages. “We don’t know how customers
will react,” Ms. Burnett said.
Salad
dressing proved the menu item most difficult to reformulate, she said,
in part because different oils impart specific viscosity and taste. For
Greek salad dressing, Panera had to take apart the spice mix it used and
go back to the basics — lemon juice, garlic, oregano and rosemary.
“We learned we don’t have to have these things on the list,” Ms. Burnett said, “so why have them?”
Correction: May 6, 2015
An article on Tuesday about Panera Bread’s decision to remove many artificial colors, flavors and preservatives from its ingredients erroneously included one cereal among those from which General Mills has eliminated genetically modified ingredients. Grape-Nuts is made by Post, not General Mills, and therefore is not one of the cereals affected.
An article on Tuesday about Panera Bread’s decision to remove many artificial colors, flavors and preservatives from its ingredients erroneously included one cereal among those from which General Mills has eliminated genetically modified ingredients. Grape-Nuts is made by Post, not General Mills, and therefore is not one of the cereals affected.
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